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San Antonio relishes Spain

SAN ANTONIO -- In San Antonio, a city where architecture, art and food reflect the influences of its neighbor to the south, Spaniards dominated this past week as Texas' second-largest city celebrated the San Antonio New World Wine and Food Festival.

"The Reign of Spain" (Nov. 5-12) paid tribute to the hottest trend in cuisine, effectively acknowledging that Spain has moved to the head of the table.

While plenty of Tex-Mex dishes could be found at events, ticket holders at vintner dinners and open-air tastings crowded around stations belonging to visiting chefs, vintners and merchants from Spain.

During "Cooking from the Heart of Spain, Food of La Mancha," veteran cookbook author Janet Mendel prepared dishes using saffron, Manchengo cheese, quince and almonds from Spain's central region.

At a luncheon at the Fig Tree Restaurant, Eduardo Zamora poured Vina Sol, a parellada from Barcelona's Torres Vineyard.

At a wine and cheese seminar and The Grand Tasting, an olive oil tasting sponsored by Carbonnell (Spain's popular olive oil, newly carried by San Antonio-based H.E.B. ) drew some of the largest crowds.

But the dishes that captivated diners most were those that reflected the influence of Ferran Adria, chef owner of (three-star) Michelin El Bulli restaurant in Roses, Spain.

The man many call the most influential and innovative chef in the world is best known for his foams, traditional Spanish dishes converted to a near-liquid consistency, served in a glass and eaten with a spoon.

It's called deconstruction -- taking the ingredients of a classic dish such as Tortilla Espanole (eggs, potatoes, olive oil) and reassembling it with a different texture and temperature. The flavors still are there, but distinct, served in layers, the uppermost foamed into an airy topping.

 

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